By Gerry Barker
Photos/Video by Gerry Barker
Gold!
The mere mention of the word ignites visions of wealth, fame and fortune.
“Gold! Gold! Gold!” was the headline in the Seattle Post-Intelligencer on July 17, 1897 — “Sixty Eight Rich Men on the Steamer Portland” had arrived with “Stacks of Yellow Metal.” And that’s how the fabled Klondike Gold Rush was born.
Skagway, Alaska was one of the starting points for thousands of gold-seekers making the harrowing 600-mile trek to the Yukon gold fields. As they crossed into Canada, each person was required to bring along a ton of supplies — enough to last a year — and had to navigate trails that were narrow, steep and treacherous, not to mention at times the below-zero temperatures.
After 3,000 horses perished on the White Pass Trail, a group of investors decided there had to be a better way. How about a railroad?
In 1898, that idea morphed into The White Pass & Yukon Railroad, which would carry passengers and freight from Skagway to Whitehorse in British Columbia, a distance of 107 miles. Today the WP&YR train takes tourists to the White Pass Summit, a distance of 20 miles, climbing 3,000 feet from sea level in the process. Featuring steep grades of almost 4 percent and tight curves, it utilizes narrow gauge tracks.
On our Silver Nova cruise to Alaska, we stopped in Skagway and rode the WP&YR — now a major tourist attraction — to the Summit, along the way getting a first-hand look at the trail it replaced.
Work on the building the railroad started in 1898, and was every bit as challenging as the trails were to the would-be prospectors. Workers had to blast through solid rock, construct two tunnels, trestles, bridges and lay down track for hairpin turns in weather that hit 60 below zero. In all, 35,000 men worked on the project, using 450 tons of explosives.
There’s a popular quote attributed to “Big” Mike Henry, who supervised the railroad’s construction: “Give me enough dynamite, and snoose, and I’ll build a railroad to hell.”
It was completed in 1900, at a cost of $10 million, and continued to provide a vital rail link long after the gold fever subsided, including playing a vital role moving equipment and supplies during World War II. The WP&YR train found a new purpose with the arrival of cruise ships to Alaska’s Inside Passage. The tracks run right down to the place where the ships dock.
The passenger cars are much the same as the originals, and attendants relate the history of the train and the events of the gold rush as it makes its climb through Alaska’s magnificent scenery. Along the way you’ll see several highlights, including:
— The Gold Rush Cemetery, Skagway’s first cemetery where many Gold Rush notables are buried, including gangster “Soapy” Smith.
–As you pass a U.S. Customs Station you’ll see the words, “On to Alaska with Buchanan” painted on the rocks below. That was the motto given to Detroit businessman George Buchanan, who starting taking groups of boys to Alaska during the Depression.
— Bridal Veil Falls, a waterfall that cascades 6,000 feet from two glaciers.
— Black Cross Rock, marking the spot where a blasting accident buried two workers under a 500-ton granite boulder. In all, it’s reported that 35 men died during the railroad’s construction.
— Inspiration Point, at the 2400-foot level. One look at the view and you know how it earned its name.
At White Pass Summit, where Alaska borders Canada, the train turns around for the journey back to Skagway. Along the way, we meet up with one of the steam locomotives still is use by WP&YR, which they tell us is an uncommon occurrence.
In 1994, the WP&YR was recognized as an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, an honor it shares with the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower. No doubt it’s an example of the what sheer determination can accomplish against what seem like insurmountable odds.
Speaking of which, in all it was estimated that over 100,000 people participated in the Klondike Gold Rush, with 30,000 who actually completed the journey. Of that number, it’s said 4,000 discovered gold. The odds weren’t great, but I can’t say anything — I still buy those lottery tickets.
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